{"product_id":"sam-silicone-art-materials-sam-32-silicone-adhesive-paint-base","title":"SAM - Silicone Art Materials: SAM-32 Silicone Adhesive \u0026 Paint Base","description":"\u003cp\u003eSAM-32 Silicone Adhesive \/ Silpoxy 3-ounce tube\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOne part silicone adhesive \u0026amp; paint base\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePeople are asking about how 1-part silicones fit into the range of materials available to silicone artists. Here are Tom McLaughlin's views on working with 1-part silicone:\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eUSING 1-PART SILICONE\u003cbr\u003eby Tom McLaughlin\u003cbr\u003e(c) 2022 Silicone Art Materials\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-part silicones are the most popular silicone in the world!\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSilicone caulking seals and waterproofs bathtubs and sinks on every continent.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-parts are formulated as adhesives.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThey are far more adhesive than 2-part (A\/B) silicones.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eNo need to measure different parts.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-parts set up as they meet the air, from the outside to the inside.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-parts are Condensation Cure silicone and need moisture and air to cure.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThat’s why they don’t set up in an airtight tube.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFormulated with just the right amount of curing agents, 1-parts set up every time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eReplace cap on tube as soon as possible.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eImproperly closed caps will cause 1-part silicones to set up in the tube.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eTo help prevent cap from sticking, wipe a little petroleum jelly or mold release on the threads.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePlatinum silicones will not set up on top of 1-part silicones.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-parts all contain Tin, a Platinum silicone No-No.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhen a platinum silicone pour just won’t take platinum silicone paint no matter what you try, using a 1-part silicone as a paint base may be the only option to complete a project.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSAM-32 \/ Silpoxy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe new high strength, fast set 1-part silicones have exotic cross-linkers. They are stronger, cure faster and stick better to a wider range of materials than ordinary silicone caulking. This is why they are so popular with silicone doll and special effects people.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAS AN ADHESIVE\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1-part silicones come as a thick paste - like toothpaste.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt’s best for gluing repairs at this consistency.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eVery little is needed to repair torn silicone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA toothpick may be the best applicator for most repairs.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWipe off excess with a sponge or paper towel moistened with isopropyl alcohol.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe trick is setting a glued piece down undisturbed while the adhesive cures.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHeat from a hair drier and a spray of water will help speed cure time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eRegular silicone caulking from the hardware store fully cures overnight.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSAM-32 and Silpoxy cure in minutes with applied heat.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eTEXTURING\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAs a paste, 1-parts can be used for texture. Patting with a brush or sponge will give interesting texture effects. Apply matting powder over a layer of 1-part, and textures can be stamped into the surface with coarse sandpaper, sponges, brushes, etc. Once cured, excess matting powder can be rinsed off with water or solvent.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAS A SILICONE PAINT BASE\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor use as a paint base, 1-parts need to be thinned with a solvent.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThis is purely a by ‘feel’ thing.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e50\/50, equal parts solvent and silicone by eye is a good start.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAlways add pigment to silicone first to get the ratio right, then add solvent to thin.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1part silicones are firmer than pouring silicones.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eUsually between Shore A 20 and Shore A 40 Durometer.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePaint layers want to be thin to prevent a firm skin from forming.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHIGHLY ADHESIVE = HOLDS MORE PIGMENT\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSince 1-part silicones are so very adhesive, they can take higher pigment loadings than A\/B silicones. This ability to load 1-parts with pigment makes them great for painting hair and intensely colored details. Try 1 part pigment to 2 or 3 parts high strength adhesives like SAM-32 or Silpoxy by volume. For general painting, try working with more pigment than you usually do with A\/B silicone and thin with solvent for delicate toning and washes.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAS A SEALING COAT\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eA thin layer of 1-part silicone on top of a paint job done with a softer 2-part like Psycho Paint will give protection from abrasion. This is not unlike human skin, which has a horny firm layer on top of softer tissue. The trick is you don’t need much. Thin 1-part silicone with 2 or 3 parts solvent by eye before applying a thin, even coat with a brush or sponge as a sealer. Think of it as a soft version of varnish used to protect wood. If you want to do this with Platinum silicone, there are a number of firmer translucent silicones you can use, like Dragon Skin 10, 20 or 40 (higher numbers mean firmer).\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAS A BONDING COAT FOR MATTING POWDER\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHigh strength 1-part silicone adhesives bond matting powder better than anything else.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eYou need to work fast as you only have about 5 minutes of working time.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe most common mistake with “wet” matting is using too much silicone for the bonding coat.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThis can result in crusty clumps of matting powder and a thick finish.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eVery little silicone is needed to permanently bond matting powder.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eIt’s recommended to thin silicone with a solvent in equal parts (50\/50).\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eSmooth-On Novocs is fastest, SAM OSS, naphtha, Bob Ross thinner etc dry slower.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eApply liberally with a 1-inch chip brush, getting it into every crack and crevice.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith a fresh brush go over entire surface removing as much wet silicone as possible.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWipe brush on paper towel to clean it if necessary.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith a latex-free sponge STIPPLE, pat lightly over the entire surface, removing any remaining excess, paying particular attention to removing any puddles from creases and evening out the silicone all over.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003ePour matting powder in a cup and load a fresh 1” chip brush or powder brush from that. Load brush with powder and apply to the wet silicone, barely touching the surface.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAvoid getting silicone on the brush as much as possible.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eKeep brush full of powder and continue until the surface is fully covered in powder.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLightly tap - pounce - the brush on the powder to force the powder into intimate contact with the wet silicone.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAllow to sit undisturbed until cured.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWith fast set 1-part silicones this could be 1 hour.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eClean brushes in solvent for reuse.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOnce cured, remove excess powder in a water bath with detergent or baby shampoo.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eRinse in clean water, let dry.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAlternately, excess can be removed with a sponge or paper towel moistened with water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eLONGEVITY\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThere is a concern if materials like 1-part silicones are ‘archival’. Archival means to last for a long time. With art this usually means how long a pigment will retain its color without fading, or a paper staying white and not yellowing. With rubbers it refers to how long a rubber will retain its physical properties. In the case of collectors’ silicone dolls, how long they will last with moderate light use.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e2 part (A\/B) Tin cure silicone has a bad reputation for breaking down, especially when silicone fluid is added to make it softer. And it does. Molds made from 2-part Tin cure silicones have a useable life of 5 years or so. Although 1-part silicones use Tin to cure them to a rubber, the chemistry is very different to 2-part Tin cure silicones. 1-parts can last very long indeed. How many times during a lifetime does a bathtub need to be re-caulked with silicone caulking?\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAnimatronic silicone figures in theme parks are usually painted with contractor’s caulking from a paint store. These animated figures go through hundreds of thousands of motions in their lifetime and are usually made of Shore A 10 to 30 Durometer silicone. Silicone medical prosthetics and appliances are generally made of firmer\/stronger silicones in the Shore A 30 to 50 Durometer range for durability. In both applications - daily prosthetic wear and constant animatronic flexing - the author’s experience is theme park contracts and medical insurance will try to get 7 years use out of a silicone piece before replacement. But the reality is closer to 5 years being the limit for repeated, daily use.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eAs the reborn silicone doll world is relatively new, we don’t have any definitive long-term data. But it’s not like one day you’ll open your display case and a silicone doll will crumble to pieces. Silicone has a much longer life than natural latex, which turns yellow then brown and gooey when exposed to sunlight and the atmosphere. 7 - 15 years is about the limit for anything made from natural latex rubber. Silicone will yellow slightly in time, but holds onto its mechanical properties much longer than latex and many other rubbers. 25 years can be easily expected from silicone rubber as a collector’s piece. Maybe 50 years or more. A lot has to do with how soft a silicone is and how much it is handled. Firmer silicones are stronger. Soft “marshmallow” silicone frequently handled and dressed will “chafe” on the surface. (This is where a protective coat of a firmer silicone can help extend the life of a doll.) Properly cared for, a well-made Platinum silicone doll could be expected to be left to your grandchildren.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eTom McLaughlin 2022 (c) Silicone Art Materials\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Reborn Supplies","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48876299714787,"sku":null,"price":590.0,"currency_code":"ZAR","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0795\/6090\/0835\/files\/SAM-32-silicone-adhesive.jpg?v=1777283733","url":"https:\/\/rebornsupplies.co.za\/products\/sam-silicone-art-materials-sam-32-silicone-adhesive-paint-base","provider":"Reborn Supplies","version":"1.0","type":"link"}